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What makes white wines fresh is not just the temperature

The Real Basis of Freshness: Acidity

Acidity is the main pillar of freshness.



Acidity is the main pillar of freshness.
 A white wine with high natural acidity – like an Arinto or Riesling – gives a sensation of lightness, vibrancy, and impressive palate freshness. Acidity balances alcohol and body, contributing to a clean and persistent finish.
 As Matt Kramer states, the structure of the wine — and not just its temperature — is what keeps the wine alive:

 “Structure can refer to acidity, sugar, alcohol… each are preservatives that ward off oxidation and decay.”

 A wine with an unbalanced structure, even when chilled, can feel “flat” or lifeless.

Terroir, Grapes, and Winemaking

Freshness also comes from the vineyard.
 Cooler climates, higher altitudes, and poor or granite soils favor more vibrant, mineral white wines.

Critic Jamie Goode described a white wine from Languedoc as “rich and fresh at the same time,” emphasizing that richness and freshness can coexist if the wine is made with healthy grapes from the right varieties.

The choice of grape variety is key:

• Arinto, Loureiro, or Rabigato bring natural acidity.
 • Chardonnay or Antão Vaz need careful winemaking to preserve freshness.
Techniques like:
• Soft pressing,

• Fermentation at low temperatures,

• No bâtonnage, or

• Moderate (or zero) use of oak

are tools that winemakers use to preserve the vibrant and light character of a wine that is both rich and fresh at the same time.

The Wisdom of Those Who Know the Douro Like No One Else

In the Douro, freshness is not always easy to find — but it can be naturally found in the right vineyards.

As Cristiano van Zeller explains:

“The true freshness of our white wines comes from altitude and the age of the vines. The deep roots of these century-old vines help maintain natural acidity, even in warmer years. Nature does its work — and we just respect it.”

It is precisely this philosophy that gives rise to wines like CV Branco and VZ Branco. Made from very old vines, these are whites that combine minerality and longevity — with freshness felt on the palate and not just in the bottle’s temperature.

João Paulo Martins: The Right Whites for Summer

Portuguese critic João Paulo Martins often highlights fresh white wines as ideal for the summer, not because they are served ice-cold, but because they have:
• Prominent acidity,

• Vibrant varietal profiles (such as Alvarinho and Loureiro),

• And moderate alcohol content.

So What is “Freshness” in a White Wine?

We can think of it as the sum of:

• High acidity

• Citrusy or floral aromas

• Light or medium body

• Low alcohol content (ideally below 13%)

• Dry and mineral finish
Low temperature helps, yes. But the wine itself must have intrinsic freshness.

Conclusion: More Than a Chilled Glass, a Living Wine

The next time you pour a white wine, think: Am I tasting only the chill from the fridge? Or was this wine crafted to vibrate, even at 10°C?
 As Jancis Robinson said, we shouldn’t anesthetize the wine with ice. True freshness comes from the acidity, terroir, and the winemaker’s touch — and continues with the pleasure of each sip.

Meet the Woolly Guardians 
of CV Vineyard!

New Arrivals: More Hooves on the Ground!


Just when we thought our little sheep family was complete, we welcomed new residents on February 25th—two adult sheep and two small ones!
Our little ecosystem is growing, and with more mouths to graze, the vineyard and olive groves are getting even more love. Watching these animals become part of our landscape has been an incredibly rewarding experience. It’s not just about their practical benefits—it’s about embracing nature’s rhythms and creating a healthy, balanced vineyard where biodiversity thrives.

Why Sheep? A Step Towards a Regenerative Future
Bringing sheep into the vineyard isn’t just a cute idea—it’s part of our long-term commitment to sustainability. Regenerative viticulture is all about restoring soil health, increasing biodiversity, and reducing our impact on the environment. Here’s why our woolly workers are a perfect fit:

  • No More Mowers – Instead of using fuel-powered machines to control vegetation, our sheep do the job naturally, reducing carbon emissions.
  • Living Fertilizer – Their droppings are packed with nutrients, enriching the soil and promoting healthier vines.
  • Soil Protection – By gently disturbing the topsoil, they encourage better aeration and water absorption, reducing erosion.
  • Biodiversity Boosters – More animal presence means more beneficial insects, microbes, and overall vineyard resilience.

The Future: More Sheep, More Growth?
With our latest arrivals settling in, we’re already dreaming of expanding the flock. Perhaps more little lambs will be born in the vineyard, strengthening our connection to this natural approach. One thing is certain—the sheep aren’t just visitors; they’re part of the Van Zellers & Co family now.
So, next time you open a bottle of CV Curriculum Vitae, know that it comes from a vineyard where nature leads the way—where woolly workers, ancient vines, and regenerative practices come together to create wines full of life and soul.
Want to meet our sheep? Stay tuned—we might just have some vineyard visits planned where you can say hello to these adorable vineyard keepers in person!


Cheers to nature, to great wine, and to our ever-growing flock!

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Harvest 2024: A Family Adventure 
in the Douro

The Climate: Nature Challenging Us (as Always)

The year began with a warm and rainy winter—the kind of conditions that make the vines smile and grow healthy. March brought a deluge that gave us some headaches, but April warmed things up and brought a dose of optimism for the rest of the cycle. Summer was marked by the typical Douro heat and dryness, but September delivered milder temperatures, giving the grapes the time they needed to achieve perfect balance.

Work, Laughter, and Achievements

The harvest is always an intense moment, but it’s also filled with camaraderie and celebration. This year, we faced minor challenges—pests like the grape moth and scale insects made their appearance—but nothing our team couldn’t handle with expertise. After all, at Van Zellers & Co, we know every challenge is an opportunity to learn and improve

The Result: Wines that Tell Stories

With grapes in excellent phytosanitary condition and production above average, the 2024 harvest already promises wines that will be unforgettable. Each bunch harvested is another piece of a puzzle that results in authentic wines, imbued with the soul of the Douro and the signature of our team.
This year’s harvest was special—not just for what we gathered, but for what we experienced together. This is how Van Zellers & Co continues to transform hard work into legacy, always with a touch of passion, humor, and, of course, a glass of wine in hand to celebrate

EXPLORE OUR WINES

The Perfect Tawny Port Pairing

ALMENDRADO RECIPE

INGREDIENTS

  • 4 egg whites
  • 250g ground almonds
  • 200g brown sugar
  • 2 tablespoons flour
  • 1 teaspoon baking powder
  • 1 teaspoon cinnamon
  • Rice paper
  • 1 pinch of salt
  • Whole almonds (for garnish)

INSTRUCTIONS

  1. Preheat the oven to 180ºC.
  2. Add a pinch of salt to the egg whites, and beat until stiff peaks form.
  3. Gradually add flour, sugar, and cinnamon to the mixture until smooth.
  4. Gently fold in the ground almonds with a spatula until well combined.
  5. Line a baking tray with greaseproof paper and lay rice paper on top.
  6. Use a dessert spoon to scoop balls of dough onto the tray, spacing them to allow for rising.
  7. Place one whole almond on each cookie, pressing down lightly.
  8. Bake for about 20 minutes, or until golden brown.
  9. Allow the cookies to cool, then trim the rice paper edges as needed.

Serve these with a glass of our Tawny Port, and enjoy each delicious layer as they unfold in harmony with the wine.

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The Circle of Life

We were part of a silent revolution and a come back to the roots – in fact the Douro wine production was for centuries centred in the production of reds – Port was an accident of Nature and one of the first marketing products in the wine world. The market was asking for this naturally sweet wine…

And now I´m are back to my beginning  after selling Quinta Vale D. Maria in 2017 –  Van Zellers & Co is mainly a Port wine company focused in the production of high quality Ports. We also have high quality Douro Doc reds and whites,  Cv-Curriculum Vitae and VZ-Van Zellers & Co, but my main passion are the Tawnies or as we now call them the Crafted by Time Ports.

And it really is about time, something scarce that seems immense when one starts roaming the circle of life.
 

Sea Change

Outside one restaurant, a woman was flinging squid onto the coals with impressive ferocity, scowling into shimmering heat. I pulled up a plastic chair, ordered sardines, which arrived grilled with wedges of lemons, a juicily ripe tomato salad and boiled potatoes swimming in garlic butter. ‘And some wine, senhorinha?’ Yes, what a good idea. The carafe of very cold, crisp vinho verde cut through the salt-crusted, blackened fish skin. I turned my face up to the sky, blue as an azulejo tile, and for the first time in days, smiled. Everything was going to be okay. Because if I could be content there, in that moment, then happiness could happen again and again and again.

Here’s what I remember. Carrying glasses of Joáo Pato’s sparkling, salmon-coloured Bairrada into Praça das Flores at dusk, while a saxophonist plays beside the fountain, and everyone watches each other circling in the sultry air. We chose wines, unashamedly, for the quirkiness of their labels – perhaps a wild boar (Crazy Javali) or a skull-and-crossbones (Pirata da vaiuva) or a nun (Il Ceo). And as Londoners, we were astounded how Portuguese wine bars let us sample four or five different varieties before settling on which we wanted – such hospitality!

Driving to a seafood shack in Famalicão Nazaré for my first taste of percebes. Perilous to harvest (fishermen scale steep cliffs with ropes to reach the goose barnacles), their appearance is part dinosaur’s claw, part elephant’s leg. My companions – a motley crew comprising an actor, a vintner, a designer – demonstrate how to snap off the top of the shell and prise out the clam-like slivers of meat. Though unlovely to look at, the flavour smacks of the sea. A bottle of buttery Van Zellers & Co VZ Douro Branco 2017 is uncorked. Platters of oysters and mussels keep coming. The name, they tell me, is pronounced per-se-besh, which also means “He/she understands.” Well, I was starting to.

Jantar debaixo dos limoeiros do Paço da Glória, uma casa senhorial no Minho. A cera a acumular-se à volta das velas e as garrafas de vinho vazias a estampar formas arredondadas cor-de-rosa na toalha de linho, enquanto eu falava com um grupo de estranhos sobre o luto – Não é que ele surge em momentos tão estranhos e inesperados? E não é sombrio quando se tinha uma relação difícil com a pessoa que faleceu? É uma alegria poder dizer coisas que a minha própria família, limitada pela famosa reserva britânica, não aceitaria à mesa de jantar.

Dining beneath the lemon trees at Paco da Gloria, a manor house in Minho. Wax pooling around candle stumps and empty wine bottles stamping pink crescents onto the linen tablecloth as I talk with a group of strangers about grief – Doesn’t it strike at such odd, unanticipated moments? Isn’t it murky when you had a strained relationship with the person who passed away? – giddy at being able to say things that my own family, hampered by that notorious British reserve, wouldn’t welcome at the dinner table.
 
Scuba diving from Sines harbour to explore Ecoalga’s underwater wine cellar. Tiny marine creatures have left their lacework over the bottles. Apparently, wines age faster down here than back on terra firma, gently rocked by the current in the cool dark depths. A phrase drifts into my mind: sea-change. The first recorded mention is in Shakespeare’s The Tempest. “Nothing of him that doth fade, but doth suffer a sea change, into something rich and strange.” Ariel’s Song is about a drowned king, but the expression’s come to mean either a change brought about by the sea, or more broadly, a profound or notable transformation of any kind. Back at the surface, bobbing on the grey-green waves, I stretch my fingers wide, no longer clinging onto broken things like a shipwrecked soul. There’s some relief, after all, in releasing, in being adrift, alone. Precious things had been wrenched from my grip; let them settle on the seabed like a treasure chest.

So many of the people I met in Portugal had undergone their own sea-changes. The lawyer turned award-winning cheesemaker Joana Garcia. A former freediver who’d retrained as a death doula. All the women who’d one day decided to move themselves from South Africa or Australia or Brazil to this corner of Europe – because they wanted to, because they could.
 
Of course, those months had low points, too. And I won’t miss being driven from bed each morning by the sound of drilling and stifling heat – sleep deprived, head pounding, throat parched – because our third-floor apartment, for all its beautifully curated bookshelves and antique tiles and enviable Principe Real location, turned out to a veritable furnace and backed onto a construction site.
 
Mostly, however, that summer was a series of gilded, glass-measured moments. I took my medicine – laughter, sunlight, wine – and felt braver than before.

Bottled Liquid History

Each bottle in this collection tells a story, capturing a moment in history that Van Zellers & Co will never repeat. 



The collection includes:

Crafted by Liberty


Celebrating the year Abraham Lincoln was elected the 16th president of the United States in 1860

Crafted by Family


Marking the marriage of Cristiano’s great-great-grandparents in 1870


Crafted by Poetry


Commemorating the birth of the illustrious poet Fernando Pessoa in 1888

Through Liberty, we have chosen them.
Through Family, we have cared for them.
Through Poetry, we share them.

To enhance the 19th-century experience, we collaborated with Vista Alegre Atlantis, founded in 1824, renowned for superior quality crystal and porcelain. Their hand-blown decanter, designed exclusively for the Van Zellers & Co XIX The Rare Port Collection, complements the set beautifully.

Included in the collection are three silver necklaces from Leitão & Irmão, official jewelers to the Portuguese crown since the 19th century. These necklaces adorn the crystal decanter and distinguish each wine, holding the secret behind the story of each Very, Very Old Tawny Port.

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“In nature nothing is created, nothing is lost, everything is transformed” – a good principle for regenerative viticulture.

Francisca Van Zeller

What is Regenerative Viticulture?

Regenerative viticulture is a sustainable agricultural approach that focuses on continuously improving the soil and promoting biodiversity to create high-quality wines while protecting the environment. Historically, wine farming has been associated with intensive practices that can deplete the soil and harm local ecosystems. Regenerative viticulture seeks to reverse this impact by adopting methods that promote biological diversity and a healthy soil.

Improving the Soil in the Vineyard and the Environment

The classic example is in Bordeaux where the two magnificent Rothschild properties, Chateau Lafite and Chateau MoutonRothschild, although sometimes only a few yards apart, have two entirely different styles. The former has perfect poise or balance, and extreme elegance and may be considered the benchmark of the finest claret. Perfect poise and extreme elegance could well describe Baron Eric de Rothschild, who was the family member responsible for this chateau for forty years. Eric absolutely personifies Lafite, as I am sure that his charming daughter, Saskia will future years.

Good Practices from Van Zellers & Co.

At Van Zellers & Co. we have adopted various regenerative viticulture practices to promote sustainability in our old vineyards.

We use a rotation system of different kinds of legume and brassicas  that improves soil fertility and reduces dependence on chemical fertilisers. These cover crops are sown at specific times in the growing cycle to maximise the benefits for the soil. These plants fulfil specific functions, from fixing atmospheric nitrogen to decompressing the soil and protecting it from pests and diseases. Legumes and brassicas are left in the soil after mowing, providing organic matter and protecting it from erosion and nutrient loss.

Another important practice is the use of nitrogen-fixing bacteria, which are sprayed on the plants to promote soil health and reduce the need for nitrogen fertilisers. In addition, a horse will do the ploughing of the soil in the middle of the vineyards to bury organic matter and control weeds, thus minimising the use of herbicides.

Benefits for the environment

By adopting these practices, we increase the biodiversity of our vineyards, allowing the soil to fulfil its cycle and regenerate naturally. At the same time, we contribute to carbon retention and oxygen production, while increasing water retention in the soil. We also foster the microbiological life of the soil, creating and protecting insects, birds, and mammals, which are essential for ecological balance.

In short, at Van Zellers & Co. we produce high-quality wines and contribute to the creation and protection of life in our vineyards, thus promoting a healthier and more sustainable environment.

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Ben Howkins and the person behind the wine

Ben Howkins

Have you ever wondered what sort of person actually created the wine you have in your glass right now? Was she fragrant and beautiful? Was he robust and giving? Were they husband and wife?

The same with Chefs. A lean chef will more likely offer discerning food for serious diners; a rotund chef will smilingly please the hungry hordes.


The wonderful thing about wines produced by families rather than by corporates, is that there genuinely does seem to be a relationship between the creator and his or her wine.

The classic example is in Bordeaux where the two magnificent Rothschild properties, Chateau Lafite and Chateau MoutonRothschild, although sometimes only a few yards apart, have two entirely different styles. The former has perfect poise or balance, and extreme elegance and may be considered the benchmark of the finest claret. Perfect poise and extreme elegance could well describe Baron Eric de Rothschild, who was the family member responsible for this chateau for forty years. Eric absolutely personifies Lafite, as I am sure that his charming daughter, Saskia will future years.

Chateau Mouton Rothschild’s chatelaine for around the same time was the ex-actress and extrovert Baroness Philippine de Rothschild. Philippine went through life at full throttle. Guess what. Mouton’s wines are clearly more outgoing and fulsome.

At the beginning of the explosion of high alcohol strength Napa cabernet wines in California at the end of the last century, we all wondered why. We knew that Robert Parker liked these highoctane wines, but it was a chicken and egg situation. Did the producers bow to Parker’s points or did Parker encourage this trait amongst the new fraternity of vineyard owners?


A wise PR man in Napa put me right. This new swarm of high-end Napa vineyard owners had mostly made their dosh by selling their computer/construction companies to fund their dream of owning a vineyard. Apart from enjoying a nice warm climate, they also enjoyed strong martinis, luxury whiskies and gins. High strength meant better.

As it was with their wines. They wanted their wines to push through the 14.5% barrier and higher. A noble aspiration, but not for me. Normal service is now being resumed

In the Douro Valley in Northern Portugal, the majestic home of port, multiple characters have abounded for centuries, each shaping the trade and style of wines they loved.

The most recent classic examples surely include the owner of Taylor’s port, the debonair ex Scots guardsman, Alistair Robertson. Taylor’s vintage port is renowned for having ‘backbone’(ramrod backbone ? ) and is indeed elegant, long lasting and giving.

By contrast, its stablemate, Fonseca port, is surely fashioned in the image of its legendary maker, Bruce Guimaraens. Fonseca is robust, hearty, full fruited, a joy to engage with and a bull of a port or is that Bruce ? David, Bruce’s engaging son, happily carries on the family tradition, whilst blending in his own version of fun.

For many years, Croft port, my old company, was the preserve of Robin Reid, whose wife Elsa and their three daughters gave a certain feminine balance to the proceedings. Croft does indeed have flowery overtones in its make up.

Cristiano van Zeller, current custodian of the van Zeller dynasty, has the air of an aristocrat with his full figure and fine beard. He could be equally at home at his English castle or club. His latest release of three nineteenth-century colheita ports from 1888, 1870 and 1860 seem a perfect fit.


Imagine these years in a St James’s Street gentleman’sclub. Dukes arriving from their estates in the Shires; Peers strolling in from the House of Lords and men of affairs being driven in their carriages from the city of London. Dining and gambling with copious quantities of port would have kept them up until the early hours. The conversation would have flowed in equal measures as the bets were placed. This was the world in which these vintages were born. To enjoy them today is indeed a unique and gob-smacking pleasure.

My latest book ‘Adventures in the WineTrade – Diary of a Vintners Scholar’ recently published by the Academie du VinLibrary, describes my first visit to the Douro Valley in that celebrated vintage port year, 1963.  There is something magical, something unending, and something that goes straight to the heart when tasting and enjoying these so-satisfying wines.

There is also a sense of humor, a sense of camaraderie that accompanies most English of non-English wines, as this extract shows.

Photographer – Carolina Pimenta for The Last Drop

DaRe to be a Port Lover?
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