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From the Soil Up: Our Partnership with the University of Aveiro and Entogreen

The Science Behind the Study

In February 2024, we launched a three-year field trial in partnership with the University of Aveiro’s Department of Biology, CESAM, and EntoGreen, a
Portuguese company specialising in insect biotechnology, specifically Black Soldier
Fly (BSF). The trial is part of the InsectERA Agenda Mobilizadora, a national programme funded by the European Union that explores the role of insects in sustainable agriculture and the circular economy.

The study is being conducted on a parcel in Valença do Douro, at 400 metres altitude, planted over 40 years ago. These are old vines — not yet centenarian, but mature enough to express the kind of vine age that truly matters. They were chosen for a practical reason: the gentler terrain and better road access allow for more rigorous
scientific measurement than steeper, more remote sites. The intention is to apply what we learn in Valença do Douro further upstream — in our centenarian vineyard, Vinha das Silvas, on the schist slopes above the Rio Torto. Science begins where it can be done best. The ultimate focus is always the oldest vines.

At the centre of the study is something called frass — an insect-derived organic fertilizer. Frass is rich in organic matter, contains chitin residues from the insects themselves, and is nutrient-dense. It is produced through the bioconversion of larvae
of Hermetia illucens, the Black Soldier Fly. These larvae are extraordinary bioconverters: fed with olive pomace (the solid residue from olive oil production), they process this by-product and leave behind a fertilizer rich in nitrogen, phosphorus, organic matter, macro- and micronutrients, chitin, and diverse microbial activity.

The circular logic of this system is important to us. The olive pomace that feeds the larvae comes from the same agricultural landscape that surrounds our vineyards. What returns to the soil is not a synthetic input, but a living, biologically active material — the by-product of a by-product, transformed into something that nourishes the oldest vines of the Douro.

What the Results Show

The trial runs until 2027, and we are deliberately cautious about drawing conclusions before final results. That said, the interim report from January 2026, produced by the University of Aveiro, contains findings we believe are worth sharing.

Across all fertilised plots, organic treatments — including insect frass — stimulated measurable enzymatic activity in the soil. Enzymes are the engine of soil biology: they break down organic matter, release nutrients, and sustain the microbial communities that underpin vine health. Seeing this activity increase is a meaningful signal.

Perhaps even more relevant for the long-term health of these vineyards: soil water retention capacity increased substantially compared to the baseline measurement taken in January 2024, when compared to data recorded in July 2025. In a semi-arid region where summer droughts are becoming more frequent and severe, the soil’s ability to retain moisture is not a minor detail — it is a question of resilience. The increase in organic matter, confirmed through loss-on-ignition data, shows that the soil is actively changing.

As for the vines: physiological measurements indicate healthy levels of chlorophyll and carotenoids across all plots, consistent with well-nourished plants. No negative impact on vine health has been identified. So far, the biological indicators are positive.


Why Old Vines, and Why Now
There is a reason this study begins with old vines rather than young ones. The 40- year-old parcel in Valença do Douro is not ancient — but it represents what the Douro achieves when a vineyard is allowed to mature: deep root systems exploring schist soils, natural resilience to drought, and a relationship with the soil built over decades, not seasons. These are the qualities we aim to understand, protect, and reinforce.

Our ultimate concern, however, lies with truly old vineyards — the centenarian vines of Vinha das Silvas, above the Rio Torto, planted over a century ago and carrying genetic heritage that modern viticulture has largely lost. As members of The Old Vine Conference, a global non-profit organisation dedicated to the recognition and protection of historic vineyards, we believe that caring for old vines is a form of agricultural conservation.

The frass study is the science behind that conviction: a rigorous attempt to understand what these vines require from their soil and how we can provide it without resorting to synthetic solutions. We begin in Valença do Douro because conditions allow us to do the science properly. What we learn there, we intend to bring to the Silvas.

Looking Ahead
The trial will continue until 2027. We will share final conclusions once they are published. Until then, we extend our thanks to the team at the University of Aveiro — particularly the researchers from the Department of Biology and CESAM — and to Entogreen, for their partnership, rigour, and willingness to bring their science into
these very old vineyards.

The Douro has always been a place where survival required ingenuity. The vineyards of Valença do Douro have grown here for over forty years. The centenarian vines of Vinha das Silvas for more than a hundred. Our intention is to give them every possible advantage for the decades ahead.


The University of Aveiro field trial — “Assessment of the impact of frass on plant and soil health and productivity in Douro vineyards” — runs from February 2024 to 2027. It is conducted in partnership with the University of Aveiro’s Department of Biology, CESAM, and EntoGreen, within the framework of the EU-funded InsectERA Agenda Mobilizadora.

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Meet the Woolly Guardians 
of CV Vineyard!

New Arrivals: More Hooves on the Ground!


Just when we thought our little sheep family was complete, we welcomed new residents on February 25th—two adult sheep and two small ones!
Our little ecosystem is growing, and with more mouths to graze, the vineyard and olive groves are getting even more love. Watching these animals become part of our landscape has been an incredibly rewarding experience. It’s not just about their practical benefits—it’s about embracing nature’s rhythms and creating a healthy, balanced vineyard where biodiversity thrives.

Why Sheep? A Step Towards a Regenerative Future
Bringing sheep into the vineyard isn’t just a cute idea—it’s part of our long-term commitment to sustainability. Regenerative viticulture is all about restoring soil health, increasing biodiversity, and reducing our impact on the environment. Here’s why our woolly workers are a perfect fit:

  • No More Mowers – Instead of using fuel-powered machines to control vegetation, our sheep do the job naturally, reducing carbon emissions.
  • Living Fertilizer – Their droppings are packed with nutrients, enriching the soil and promoting healthier vines.
  • Soil Protection – By gently disturbing the topsoil, they encourage better aeration and water absorption, reducing erosion.
  • Biodiversity Boosters – More animal presence means more beneficial insects, microbes, and overall vineyard resilience.

The Future: More Sheep, More Growth?
With our latest arrivals settling in, we’re already dreaming of expanding the flock. Perhaps more little lambs will be born in the vineyard, strengthening our connection to this natural approach. One thing is certain—the sheep aren’t just visitors; they’re part of the Van Zellers & Co family now.
So, next time you open a bottle of CV Curriculum Vitae, know that it comes from a vineyard where nature leads the way—where woolly workers, ancient vines, and regenerative practices come together to create wines full of life and soul.
Want to meet our sheep? Stay tuned—we might just have some vineyard visits planned where you can say hello to these adorable vineyard keepers in person!


Cheers to nature, to great wine, and to our ever-growing flock!

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Sea Change

Outside one restaurant, a woman was flinging squid onto the coals with impressive ferocity, scowling into shimmering heat. I pulled up a plastic chair, ordered sardines, which arrived grilled with wedges of lemons, a juicily ripe tomato salad and boiled potatoes swimming in garlic butter. ‘And some wine, senhorinha?’ Yes, what a good idea. The carafe of very cold, crisp vinho verde cut through the salt-crusted, blackened fish skin. I turned my face up to the sky, blue as an azulejo tile, and for the first time in days, smiled. Everything was going to be okay. Because if I could be content there, in that moment, then happiness could happen again and again and again.

Here’s what I remember. Carrying glasses of Joáo Pato’s sparkling, salmon-coloured Bairrada into Praça das Flores at dusk, while a saxophonist plays beside the fountain, and everyone watches each other circling in the sultry air. We chose wines, unashamedly, for the quirkiness of their labels – perhaps a wild boar (Crazy Javali) or a skull-and-crossbones (Pirata da vaiuva) or a nun (Il Ceo). And as Londoners, we were astounded how Portuguese wine bars let us sample four or five different varieties before settling on which we wanted – such hospitality!

Driving to a seafood shack in Famalicão Nazaré for my first taste of percebes. Perilous to harvest (fishermen scale steep cliffs with ropes to reach the goose barnacles), their appearance is part dinosaur’s claw, part elephant’s leg. My companions – a motley crew comprising an actor, a vintner, a designer – demonstrate how to snap off the top of the shell and prise out the clam-like slivers of meat. Though unlovely to look at, the flavour smacks of the sea. A bottle of buttery Van Zellers & Co VZ Douro Branco 2017 is uncorked. Platters of oysters and mussels keep coming. The name, they tell me, is pronounced per-se-besh, which also means “He/she understands.” Well, I was starting to.

Jantar debaixo dos limoeiros do Paço da Glória, uma casa senhorial no Minho. A cera a acumular-se à volta das velas e as garrafas de vinho vazias a estampar formas arredondadas cor-de-rosa na toalha de linho, enquanto eu falava com um grupo de estranhos sobre o luto – Não é que ele surge em momentos tão estranhos e inesperados? E não é sombrio quando se tinha uma relação difícil com a pessoa que faleceu? É uma alegria poder dizer coisas que a minha própria família, limitada pela famosa reserva britânica, não aceitaria à mesa de jantar.

Dining beneath the lemon trees at Paco da Gloria, a manor house in Minho. Wax pooling around candle stumps and empty wine bottles stamping pink crescents onto the linen tablecloth as I talk with a group of strangers about grief – Doesn’t it strike at such odd, unanticipated moments? Isn’t it murky when you had a strained relationship with the person who passed away? – giddy at being able to say things that my own family, hampered by that notorious British reserve, wouldn’t welcome at the dinner table.
 
Scuba diving from Sines harbour to explore Ecoalga’s underwater wine cellar. Tiny marine creatures have left their lacework over the bottles. Apparently, wines age faster down here than back on terra firma, gently rocked by the current in the cool dark depths. A phrase drifts into my mind: sea-change. The first recorded mention is in Shakespeare’s The Tempest. “Nothing of him that doth fade, but doth suffer a sea change, into something rich and strange.” Ariel’s Song is about a drowned king, but the expression’s come to mean either a change brought about by the sea, or more broadly, a profound or notable transformation of any kind. Back at the surface, bobbing on the grey-green waves, I stretch my fingers wide, no longer clinging onto broken things like a shipwrecked soul. There’s some relief, after all, in releasing, in being adrift, alone. Precious things had been wrenched from my grip; let them settle on the seabed like a treasure chest.

So many of the people I met in Portugal had undergone their own sea-changes. The lawyer turned award-winning cheesemaker Joana Garcia. A former freediver who’d retrained as a death doula. All the women who’d one day decided to move themselves from South Africa or Australia or Brazil to this corner of Europe – because they wanted to, because they could.
 
Of course, those months had low points, too. And I won’t miss being driven from bed each morning by the sound of drilling and stifling heat – sleep deprived, head pounding, throat parched – because our third-floor apartment, for all its beautifully curated bookshelves and antique tiles and enviable Principe Real location, turned out to a veritable furnace and backed onto a construction site.
 
Mostly, however, that summer was a series of gilded, glass-measured moments. I took my medicine – laughter, sunlight, wine – and felt braver than before.

“In nature nothing is created, nothing is lost, everything is transformed” – a good principle for regenerative viticulture.

Francisca Van Zeller

What is Regenerative Viticulture?

Regenerative viticulture is a sustainable agricultural approach that focuses on continuously improving the soil and promoting biodiversity to create high-quality wines while protecting the environment. Historically, wine farming has been associated with intensive practices that can deplete the soil and harm local ecosystems. Regenerative viticulture seeks to reverse this impact by adopting methods that promote biological diversity and a healthy soil.

Improving the Soil in the Vineyard and the Environment

The classic example is in Bordeaux where the two magnificent Rothschild properties, Chateau Lafite and Chateau MoutonRothschild, although sometimes only a few yards apart, have two entirely different styles. The former has perfect poise or balance, and extreme elegance and may be considered the benchmark of the finest claret. Perfect poise and extreme elegance could well describe Baron Eric de Rothschild, who was the family member responsible for this chateau for forty years. Eric absolutely personifies Lafite, as I am sure that his charming daughter, Saskia will future years.

Good Practices from Van Zellers & Co.

At Van Zellers & Co. we have adopted various regenerative viticulture practices to promote sustainability in our old vineyards.

We use a rotation system of different kinds of legume and brassicas  that improves soil fertility and reduces dependence on chemical fertilisers. These cover crops are sown at specific times in the growing cycle to maximise the benefits for the soil. These plants fulfil specific functions, from fixing atmospheric nitrogen to decompressing the soil and protecting it from pests and diseases. Legumes and brassicas are left in the soil after mowing, providing organic matter and protecting it from erosion and nutrient loss.

Another important practice is the use of nitrogen-fixing bacteria, which are sprayed on the plants to promote soil health and reduce the need for nitrogen fertilisers. In addition, a horse will do the ploughing of the soil in the middle of the vineyards to bury organic matter and control weeds, thus minimising the use of herbicides.

Benefits for the environment

By adopting these practices, we increase the biodiversity of our vineyards, allowing the soil to fulfil its cycle and regenerate naturally. At the same time, we contribute to carbon retention and oxygen production, while increasing water retention in the soil. We also foster the microbiological life of the soil, creating and protecting insects, birds, and mammals, which are essential for ecological balance.

In short, at Van Zellers & Co. we produce high-quality wines and contribute to the creation and protection of life in our vineyards, thus promoting a healthier and more sustainable environment.

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Thoughts on old vines and the joy of becoming a member of the old vines conference

So, what is it with Old Vines?

As The Old Vine Conference puts it, “old vines are a beacon for talent, innovation, and connection. The best
old vines yield uniquely transcendent wines, incomparably rich in savour, symbolism, and heritage.
The genetic material of ancient varieties, often retrieved from forgotten old vineyards, is proving vital in
adapting to climate change.” My father and I tend to agree, so I decided to record a conversation with him.

CRISTIANO AND FRANCISCA VAN ZELLER HAVE
A FATHER AND DAUGHTER CONVERSATION

[Francisca] Dad, when was it that you understood that old vines
made a difference in the quality of wines?

[Cristiano] As soon as I started making wines in the 80’s, I experienced what types of Port wines would be
produced from younger and older vines. I also began experimenting with DOC Douro wines between 1985
and the early 1990’s at Quinta do Noval, and from 1994 onwards produced wines at Quinta do Crasto,
Quinta do Vallado and Quinta Vale D. Maria from old vineyards.
At Quinta do Noval, we only had old vineyards and the grapes we bought came from younger vineyards.
There was a clear difference in quality, and the wines varied in terms of complexity and variety. The first
vineyards in the modern “patamares” at Quinta do Noval were planted in the 70’s and 80’s.
In the region, vineyards started to be planted by grape variety in the 80’s and it was believed that this was
the best way forward for the region. However, the crucial point of the Douro is the mixture of grape
varieties in a field blend. Today, we plant in a more controlled way, less random than what used to be the
plantings in the early 20th Century. We now decide the varieties that will be planted on certain slopes and
what percentage of each variety will be planted, but we preserve the mixture and high density of the old
way of planting.

[Francisca] What do you think is so important about old vines?

[Cristiano] Old vines have a magnificent capacity to resist to climate changes and fluctuations, which has
been proven throughout time. I am referring to vineyards planted before 1975, where the mixture of
different grape varieties was one of the fundamental characteristics. This blend of different varieties is
what gives wines an amazing complexity. There is a more homogenous maturation of the grapes when they
are mixed in the vineyard. Therefore, we can pick all varieties together. This allows wines to have added
layers and aromas, which would not be possible if we blended the same amount of varieties after
fermentation. Old vineyards in the Douro are then characterized by this diversity and mix of varieties, by
the low productivity of each vine due to their age, and therefore the added concentration that directly
influence, positively, the quality of the wine throughout the different stages of production and ageing.

[Francisca] What has been your greatest challenge in working with old vines?

[Cristiano] Keeping them alive and keeping the diversity; Making sure that when we replant, we maintain the
diversity that originally existed in the vineyard; Guaranteeing that they have a long and healthy life;
The manual labour that goes into their preservation. The old vines are found in high density plantings,
therefore, to work through the vineyard is a challenge and can only be done by foot.

[Francisca] You’ve said that some of the greatest vintages of the 20th Century
were produced with young vines, and not vines over 40 years of age.
The vineyard you planted in 2004 also started producing one of
the Douro’s most acclaimed wines in 2016.
So, is age the main factor in quality?

[Cristiano] Age is one of the factors, not the main factor. When the vineyard is very good at its base, and this means, in the soil it is planted, the density of planting, the care that has been given to the plants,
the varieties that are found in that parcel, age enhances the quality.

[Francisca] When you decide to preserve old vines, does sustainability factor into the decision, or is it an economic and quality concern?

[Cristiano] I would say the answer is both. The Old vineyards in the Douro have an immense biodiversity. If we maintain them, we are preserving biodiversity. The regeneration of the soil where vines are planted is fundamental to be able to preserve the vines and the ecosystem around them. In this way, we can preserve the old vines, therefore the maintainance of these vines, that guarantee the high quality of our wines, calls for sustainability, or, in other words, practices that can sustain nature, the natural environment and the ecosystem where these vines survive. One does not exist without the other: Sustainability guarantees the existence of old vines and old vines are the proof that sustainability exists.

[Francisca] Let’s reset everything. You are starting a new project.
You find a 100 year old vineyard called Silvas, that we know that today produces CV, but didn’t produce any wine yet.
You can only make one wine from it.
Would you make a red Douro DOC or Vintage Port? And why?

[Cristiano] That’s a good question, but I would have to say both. I would use half the grapes that the
vineyard produces to create a Douro DOC red and half to produce a Port wine and try to make Vintage
Port. In fact, that is what I have always done in the projects that I started in the Douro region. I still believe
that the magnificence and beauty of Douro Old vines, is their capacity to produce both great red wines and extremely well ageing Ports.

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